Transport:Aconcagua
is situated beside the most used road between Argentina and
Chile -
on the way from Mendoza to Santiago do Chile. There are many long
distance buses, that charge the full price of Mendosa - Santiago. There
is only one company in Mendosa, that does local connection to Puente
Inca (I´m sorry but I don´t remmember the name).
Their
first bus leave at dix, second at nine, then in the afternoon. It takes
3 hours to Puente Inca, it´s recommended to buy the ticket
day
before. Also when you intend to continue from Puente to Chile, buses
are usualy full, but may be someone has free. Last bus to Mendosa
leaves from Puente Inca at nine in the evening. Equipment:Except
the obvious warm and wind-safe clothes I recommend sombrero, long
trousers, face-guard cap and long-sleeve shirt because of strong sun.
In time of my visit it was possible to climb without the crampons. It
was only more comfortable with crampons (on Calaneta), but not
essential. Crampons are more important like the ice-axe, that I
didn´t have and didn´t need. Nearly everyone wear
haevy plastic boots. I
haven´t had them and I didn´t have any trouble.
Some people
in plastic boots told me, they were pretty cold. It´s
difficult
decision, mostly when you travel long time in South America and you
can´t
have too many things. But you should have at least heavy leather boots
with membrane (I had Planica Comtec - category "D") and perfect socks.
Feather wind jacket and feather trouseres are less important, and
necessary when you
don´t climb at all hazards of weather. I don´t want
to
tell, that you don´t need this or that. Most important is to
know, that
the weather is not stable and can change dramaticly. Everytime you
have to adjust the climb to the weather and your equipment. There are
many
people who freezed there or came back with amputations. There are many
people, that don´t have experiences (me to) and want to climb
Aconcagua not
regarding the risks. Please pay attention and return when you
are not profesional climber and the weather becomes bad. I was lucky.
The weather in the time of my acsent was perfect, but when I was on the summit, it began to
snow and in three hours there was 30-40 cm in
Nido and such a fog that we nearly passed the Nido! We were lucky not
to have strong wind or storm. Then it would be bad. You can rent
crampons for 30, plastic-boots for 40, feather wind jacket for 30 US$
in Mendosa for 3 weeks (not for shorter period). It´s quite
expensive, but the price under the Aconcagua is the same, but
don´t rely on it, mostly about plastic boots. You can buy a
gas-bottle in Mendosa as well for about 5 US$.
The gas-burner (MSR) works in 6,300 m good.
When you don´t have plastic boots, give your boots
in the
sleeping bag through the night, don´t rely to warm
them up in the morning by walking! Water:
Water in Confluencia contains too much of minerals and can
make
some gastro-intestinal troubles, but the water from small streams a bit
higher is very good. In Base Camp there is a good water. There is
no spring then, but there are many snow fields beside the trail and it
makes
no problem to melt it down and drink it without purification. Only
few people use purification pills and it´s hard to buy them
in
Mendosa. With 250 ml tin of gas you can melt down snow to 6-7 liters of
water in
such elevation. Don´t forget to give the water into the
sleeping
bag through the night. Food:In Base Camp soup
costs 2 US$ and supper 8 US$. When you have money,
there is no problem for whatever. You can sleep on bet, eat in
eating-room, take warm shower, you can
let carry up your luggage (120 US$ from BC to Berlin for one backpack,
or the same price from Puente Inca to BC on mulas) . You can
buy the basic food
in Puente Inca. But don´t try to buy your food in Carefour in
Mendosa in hurry, you will eat all the time just tuna can and
liver cream and you get
mad. It was horrible! Journey:
I lost all
my luggage with
perfect map on my flight home. There are
many pages with basic informationes on the web. Puente Inca is
in 2700
m. Confuencia (3300 m) is 15 km uphill (4-5 hours).
To BC (4300 m) it takes whole day (25 km - 8-10 hours). It depends on
weigh of your backpack (main was 35 kg) and I was pretty tired first
two
days. You can climb to Canada (5000 m) in 2-3 hours from BC, night
there is beautiful. Nido Condores (5500 m) is another 2-3 hours. There
are usualy some tents in Cambio Pendiante. Berlin
in 5960 m takes about 2 hours. It´s good idea not to
sleep
there and do the last ascent from Nido. It´s only two and
half
hours more and you sleep much better both times. But in that case I
recommend to run up
the section to Berlin day before to get to know the way, because still
from BC to summit there are many trails - all without any marks -
although
all go up. But it´s easy to lose the unknown trail
in the
dark of the morning. Get start at least at four in the morning. There
is no climbing on the way and when you walk slowly it goes well. But
the stage after Calaneta, where the trail turns to left - there is no
foot-path - only rough slope. Slow down here - it´s
very
very
exhausting. It is betray of NP rangers to keep the trail in such bad
condition. Descent is very fast, most of time you can slide-down doing
long steps in rocky ground. I did the way from Nido to summit in 9,5
hours. I was quite fast still in Canaleta, but the rocky slope traped
me for long time.
Security:There
is a doctor in Base Campe and me do compulsary examination.
Whan
you have low saturation of oxygen in blood, you are not allowed to
continue. The enter fee for summit cover helicopter flight to Puente
Inca in case of accident or altitude sickness. Then ambulance. In high
season they have to take down 7-8 people a day in average! Tents are
open and more
times I
let my things,that I´ve brought up, in rocky nest
and I was stolen nothing.